防晒化妆品抗水功效评价参数的研究.doc

防晒化妆品抗水功效评价参数的研究 　　摘要： ［目的］ 分析体外法参数在抗水性防晒化妆品抗水能力评估中的应用。 ［方法］ 选取4个宣称具有抗水或防水功能的防晒化妆品和2个未宣称抗水或防水功能的防晒化妆品。分别测定入水前后的SPF值、λc值及R值(UVA/UVB)，并记录入水前后的MPF吸收曲线。 ［结果］6种防晒化妆品样品入水前后的SPF值、λc值、R值及MPF曲线均有不同程度的变化。 ［结论］ SPF值和R值相结合，可以简单推断样品入水前后防晒剂的变化情况，但要获得全面的信息，还需参考MPF曲线的变化情况。λc值在防晒化妆品抗水性评价中的应用有待进一步实验和分析。? 　　 　　关键词： 防晒化妆品；抗水性；评价 　　中图分类号： TQ 658.2?+4 文献标识码：Ａ ??? 　　 　　 Studies on water resistance of sunscreens in vitro LI Zhu?1,SU Jin?1,ZHOU Shi-wei?1,SONG Wei-min?2 ?(1.Shanghai Municipal? Center for Disease Control and Prevention, Shanghai 200336, China; 2.School of Public Health, Fudan University, Shanghai 200032, China)? Abstract:［Objective］ To study the possibility of assessment on water resisitance of sunscreens in vitro. ［Methods］ Four sunscreen products labeling water resistance and two sunscreen products without labeling water resistant were chosen for assessment. SPF, critical wavelength and the ratio of UVA/UVB were examined before and after samples were put into water. The MPF absorbance curves were recorded. ［Results］There were variations of SPF, critical wavelength, the ratio of UVA/UVB and the MPF absorbance curves before and after samples were put into water. ［Conclusion］Using the value of SPF and the value of UVA/UVB ratio, the changes of the UV filters before and after samples were put into water could be briefly estimated. The MPF absorbance curves were needed in order to obtain complete information. The results showed that the application of critical wavelength in water resistance assessment needs further study and analysis.? 　　 Key words:Sunscreen； Water resistance；Evaluation ??? 　　 　　 防晒化妆品抗水性功效评价的体外法，国内外均有学者开展尝试性研究，一般以SPF值（sun protection factor，防晒系数）的变化作为评价指数。但近期观点[1,2]认为SPF值只有结合了临界波长值（critical wavelength，λc值）才能对防晒化妆品的防护功效提供完整评价，即SPF值评价了保护的幅度，λc值评价了保护的宽度。那么在抗水性评价中仅使用SPF值作为评价参数是否足够, 体外法中还可获得的其他评价参数，如R值（UVA/UVB，吸光度比值）、MPF值（monochromatic protection factor，单色光防护指数，为透射率T的倒数，即MPF=1/T）等是否可以对产品的抗水功效进行评价，我们通过实验进行了探讨。?? 　　 　　1材料与方法? 　　 1.1仪器设备 ? 　　Labsphere UV-1