制鞋业标准流程之 针车篇.ppt

針車鞋面STITCH UPPER 車鞋舌布標STITCH TONGUE LABEL 後跟整形 Back molding 1,用該型體正確的整型楦,空壓整型網布版的型體可使用相似的楦頭代用. Need use the proper last to mold. May use the similar last as the substitute for the mesh version. 2,整型時,需對准中心點,且不可使滾口內裡打皺. When molding, must align the center line of last and don’t make the collar lining wrinkle. 3.整型的形狀要與保持正確楦頭的外觀. The shape should keep as the last’s after molding. 4.網布可用常溫整形,裝康特及人造皮的滾里須用正確的楦頭冷熱整形. For mesh version, may mold on the indoor temperatures; For the upper with counter or collar lining with synthetic ,need use proper last to mold via cool and heat mold. Applied Tooling: Molding machine 1,噴膠 2,貼合 貼鞋面和內裡 ATTACH VAMPVAMP LINING 1,鞋面及鞋面內裡在指定的部位噴膠.噴膠要均勻,不過太多或太少也不可積膠. Spray hot melt on the indicated portion of back of vamp and vamp lining. Make sure to spray evenly ,not too much or too little or amass to a pile. 2.貼鞋面和鞋面內裡,貼合時內裡要摸平順,不可皺折. Attach vamp and vamp lining and touch the lining smoothly not wrinkle. Applied Tooling: 噴膠機 Spraying hot melt machine 鞋面整型 MOLD THE VAMP 1,備好相應的模型,並設定好整形的冷熱溫度,及整型時間, 壓力等等. Set up the proper mold and set the temperature of the cool heat mold and time pressure… etc 2.整型時需對正鞋面中心線點. Must make the center of vamp match the mold’s. Applied Tooling: 整形機 Molding machine 助帶沖孔 PUNCH THE EYELET HOLE 1,將沖子對准助帶的相應位置,調整好沖孔機,一次到位,不可有重影. Put the punch on the proper position of eyelet stay and set well the punch machine, then punch only one time to avoid from double shape . 2.沖孔前需查沖子不要變形. Need check the punch if distort before punching. 3.沖子及沖板需經常打臘,以延長其使用壽命. Need often wipe wax for the punch cutting board to make them available longtime. Applied Tooling: 沖子 Punch 斬 板 Cutting board 沖孔機 Punch machine 打雞眼 FIX THE EYELET 1,眼扣的位置要正確,沒有字體部分靠助帶口一方. Put the eyelet on the proper position that side without letter should close the top line of eyelet stay. 2.眼扣不可有掉漆現象. The paint of eyelet don’t come off after fix on the eyelet stay. 3.眼扣要打牢,但不可打壞鞋面. Should make the eyelet fast on the eyelet stay, but don’t break the upper .